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Money Frédéric Comyn: "I was educated in the good, the crude and the homemade"

10:50  01 october  2022
10:50  01 october  2022 Source:   lemonde.fr

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The baker perpetuates a know-how which has earned him numerous prizes. He offers a Paris-Brest in the shape of a wheel in tribute to his grandfather, also a baker, who loved the Tour de France.

"Child, I spent a lot of time in the bakery of my grandparents, in Longueil-Annel, a small town on the banks of the Oise. I lived not far away, in Compiègne, alone with my mother, who was a real estate representative. She worked a lot, but we are still a lot of mind, especially because my grandparents provided us with good products: homemade breads and cakes, vegetables from their vegetable garden, dishes and preserves prepared by my grandmother. We had jams and pickles for the year, always potatoes and onions from the garden. I was educated in the right one, the crude and the homemade. I have never eaten muslin puree. And, as I was often alone at home, I very quickly learned to eat: carbonara pasta, vinaigrette tomatoes, omelettes ... simple and good things!

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All my vacation, I spent them with my grandparents, in the good smells of bread and hot croissants. Everything was done on site. I woke up at night, around 3 or 4 am, when my grandfather went to work in the bakery, which was on the other side of the building courtyard. I followed him to "help him", but I was especially going to annoy him, because I couldn't help much, but I loved being with him. The bakery had the distinction of being facing a lock and all the boatmen stopped going up the canal, sometimes in the middle of the night, to buy their stock of bread.

"Opening a jar of chocolate ganache, everyone can do it, but to make it is something else. "Frédéric Comyn

I was too small to learn the techniques, but with my grandparents I understood and integrated the importance of a job well done. After the bac, I naturally headed for the manual sector. I looked for an apprentice position, I started in a pizzeria, then worked at Laurent Vuyge, in Crépy-en-Valois. It was a talented and passionate baker who taught me everything and who transmitted the love of the profession. I bought my first bakery in Paris, in 2004. I have three today and each has its history. The Bellevilloise address is the old pastry shop where Mr. Vuyge took me to see the creations for the Christmas holidays. At Sceaux, we took over the Colbert pastry shop, in a magic shopping street.

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Le Paris-Brest: The recipe from Frédéric Comyn

I am very attached to crafts. In my establishments, everything is homemade, I peel my apples, I use the pectin of their skin to make my toppages, I do my praline, my pasta ... Open a jar of chocolate ganache, everyone knows how to do it , but making it is something else. Thus, many apprentices come to us to train. We do simple and tasty things, with good products. Creamy flan, fruit pies, lightning, Saint-Honoré ... and of course Paris-Brest, wheel-shaped-the favorite cake of my grandfather who loved the bicycle, the Tour de France and the Praline aux Haisettes. »

bakeries Frédéric Comyn, 140, rue de Belleville, Paris 20th; 88, rue Cambronne, Paris 15th; 49, rue Houdan, Sceaux (Hauts-de-Seine).

Eric Arella, a great cop who became in spite of himself the symbol of a police sling .
© Christophe Simon Eric Arella, ousted boss of the PJ of the South Zone, in his office in Marseille on September 23, 2020 Grand Flic respected by his Troops and his judicial partners for his professionalism and integrity, Eric Arella, ousted boss of the PJ of the South Zone, has despite himself become the symbol of the police sling against the reform of the judicial police.

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