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Style Hair Loss Is So Common Among Black Women; Here’s How I Dealt With Mine

10:16  02 february  2021
10:16  02 february  2021 Source:   msn.com

Meet The People Defying Stereotypes & Embracing Blonde Hair

  Meet The People Defying Stereotypes & Embracing Blonde Hair var scroll = new SmoothScroll( speed: 100, speedAsDuration: true, updateURL: false, popstate: false, ); document.querySelectorAll('.schw-talent-link').forEach(function(a) a.addEventListener('click',function(e) scroll.animateScroll(document.querySelector(e.currentTarget.dataset.s)); ,false); ); document.getElementById('schw-up').addEventListener('click',function(e) scroll.animateScroll(0); ,false); // removing hash navigation Who knew a simple hair colour change could be so impactful? Of course, every hair colour seems to have some false expectation attached to it – redheads are thought of as fiery and brunettes are told they’re mysterious – but going blonde remains the definitive statement of self-possessi

My friends would call me an open book, but for years I kept a secret: I was losing my hair. It happened slowly, but year after year, my hairline became increasingly more sparse until one day I woke up and noticed a shiny, smooth, bare patch of skin nestled a few rows into my retreating hairline. I was devastated. How was it possible that in my early 30s I was already experiencing hair loss in such a noticeable way?

Inspired by the natural hair movement and the hope that I could reverse the thinning, I gave up chemically straightening my hair three years prior to any hair loss. To discover my efforts were in vain left me deflated and embarrassed. I’m not alone, though. The NHS has estimated that 8 million women in the UK experience hair loss by the age of 50, and according to Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder & medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic, almost half of all black women experience some form of hair loss.

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What causes hair loss for Black women?

“Like in many cultures, Black women view their hair as their crowning glory and our communities put major value on having full, thick, long hair,” says Dr Ejikeme. “With thinning hair a common problem among black and mixed heritage women, embarrassment is rife,” she says. While I could have hidden my hair loss under a wig or weave, I chose styles that strategically concealed my bald patch. But I was left wondering why my hair was so different to that of my white mother, who in her 60s still had a full head of hair (despite dying it every colour under the sun, booking in for perms and even straightening it with a clothes iron in her heyday). Dr Ejikeme tells me it’s to do with hair type. “Instead of being round or oval like Caucasian and Asian follicles, afro hair follicles are elliptical in shape, with a curved hair follicle bulb,” she explains. “This is what makes our hair curly and coiled. It’s more fragile and prone to breakage as it forms knots easily. Plus, our hair tends to lack moisture, as the twists and turns make it difficult for sebum to travel from root to tip as it does on straight hair.” Dr Ejikeme also adds that afro hair density is lower, so there is a greater propensity for developing hair loss disorders like traction alopecia, caused by repeated pulling on the hair and often a result of some hairstyles.

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Most forms of alopecia (of which there are seven, says Dr Ejikeme) are not exclusive to Black women. But it seems our hair practices (from washing and straightening to braiding and weave-wearing) result in hair loss and breakage in large numbers. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia, a disorder that is not fully understood, is probably the most common. “This condition starts in the middle of the scalp and spreads outwards resembling a Christmas tree,” says Dr Ejikeme, who adds that it affects more women than men.

What are the best treatments for hair loss?

As a beauty editor, I knew that ditching relaxer wasn’t enough to revive the hair I had lost. Along with a major overhaul of my styling and washing practises, I decided to see an expert for treatment advice. Harrods‘ resident trichologist and hair doctor Ricardo Vila Nova advised a blood test and a DNA analysis of my hair. By magnifying and analysing a single strand he could identify the emotional, nutritional, hormonal, environmental and genetic factors affecting the health and condition of my hair and scalp. The immediate diagnosis? Low levels of vitamin D and a borderline under-active thyroid. Plus, extreme hair dryness and low cellular activity (responsible for the production of healthy hair cells). This wasn’t surprising considering my thinning and breakage, and so began the start of my hair health journey.

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Here are the various treatments recommended to me. Plus, what the hair experts really think about them.

Scalp Injections & Nourishing Hair Oils

As a regular Botox user, I’m no stranger to needles. Vila Nova recommended I try a cocktail of vitamins injected directly into my scalp, but I wondered why oral options weren’t just as good. “Injections allow for a personalised blend of healthy hair ingredients to be deposited directly into the blood stream exactly where they are needed, i.e. the scalp,” Vila Nova told me. When taking a supplement for hair, Vila Nova explains that any nutrients will benefit the body’s vital organs before making an impact on hair, or skin and nails; they are the last to see any benefits.

A mix of vitamins B1, B5, B6 and B12 were administered alongside a tsubuaki oil and castor oil head massage. According to celebrity hairstylist, Dionne Smith, castor oil is a go-to oil for afro-textured hair types, as it helps to combat dryness and adds moisture to the hair. It’s also known to strengthen hair and to stimulate hair growth. These nourishing oils rehydrated my parched hair and scalp, while the massage relaxed my nerve receptors to help dull any pain. Vila Nova injected along sectioned rows that ran from my hairline down, and finally, all the way around my head from the front to the back. I didn’t experience any downtime but it does require patience. I actually started to notice little hairs sprouting from my bald patch around four weeks later. Monthly treatments are recommended for best results, and prices start at £350.

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Gallery: What to buy from The Ordinary (Women's Health UK)

text: £9.00Shop NowRose Hip Seed Oil is nature's anti-ageing superstar. Rich in Omega-3 (yes, like in Salmon) and Omega-6 acids, this oil tackles signs of photo-ageing.

Microneedling

More commonly performed on the face, microneedling consists of rolling tiny needles over your skin. The needles cause small injuries, encouraging skin to produce more firming collagen when it repairs itself. Vila Nova mentions that the scalp also loses collagen with age, and this can potentially slow down hair growth, leaving some hair follicles dormant. “Compromised hair follicles can’t produce long, strong hair,” he told me, “but microneedling helps boost blood flow, allows treatment serums to penetrate deeper within the skin, and boosts hair follicle strength.”

This was convincing. I’ve had monthly microneedling sessions on my face for years, and after a pain free scalp injection session, I thought this treatment would be a breeze. I was wrong. The hair loss treatment was bearable but uncomfortable in comparison, as the needles went back and forth multiple times. The needle pricks made way for a cocktail of vitamins, peptides (essentially proteins), hydrating hyaluronic acid, and growth stimulators to help accelerate hair density, strength and hydration. I was told that results aren’t instant, as it’s a treatment which works over time.

Supplements

Hair loss supplements are popular, but hair expert Dr Nilofer Farjo of the Farjo Hair Institute mentions that many may promise too much and lots of brands mis-sell them. Of course, supplements can be used as support alongside wider treatments, but Dr Nilofer Farjo says they are “beneficial if hair loss is at a very early stage, or the objective is to improve the quality of existing hairs.”

Hair loss: The micronutrients needed to help prevent hair loss

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Interestingly, research shows that very low vitamin D levels can potentially lead to hair loss or stunted growth. Dr Ejikeme points out that a lack of this essential vitamin is common among Black people living in the diaspora, as melanin provides protection from the sun. At the start of my hair journey my blood test showed low vitamin D levels, likely due to years of fad dieting. Thankfully, this news coincided with a major change in the way I viewed my body and how I wanted to treat it going forward. I added fatty fish like salmon and mackerel back into my diet and started to take a vitamin D supplement to push my levels up to where they needed to be. The NHS also pinpoints meat, poultry and eggs as some foods which contain vitamin D.

Scalp Scrubs

Since ditching the relaxer and embracing my natural texture, I’m using a lot more styling products than before, such as leave-in conditioner, oils, mousse and gel. They build up on my scalp and are hard to remove with gentle cleansing formulas, but washing more often didn’t seem wise, as like most afro textured hair, mine is quite dry. Instead, I invested in a hair growth stimulating scalp scrub.

“Scalp scrubs help rid skin of follicle-blocking dead cells, product build-up and excess oil,” says Vila Nova. “In turn, this can potentially lower the shedding rate of your hair, encourage hair follicles to grow healthy hair and alleviate dryness.” I use the Oribe Serene Scalp Exfoliating Scrub, £46.50, once every two weeks as the beads help gently remove product, while the exfoliating AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) cut through dirt. After consulting with Vila Nova, he recommended that I leave the formula on my scalp for five minutes so that the acids can do their thing before gently massaging it into my scalp. I recognised instantly how effective the notion of scrubbing is for removing that film of product build-up and dead skin I always encounter by wash day. This was also effective at clearing the way for healthier hair to grow. I now shampoo less, too, so my scalp retains its natural oils and my curls are far less dry.

Hair loss treatment: Sandalwood promotes keratinocytes which could increase hair growth

  Hair loss treatment: Sandalwood promotes keratinocytes which could increase hair growth HAIR loss treatment: Losing one's hair is something to take on the chin and is simply a part of life. Or is it? Experts advise using sandalwood, which contains properties known to help increase hair growth.Sandalwood essential oil is used in the treatment of inflammatory and eruptive skin diseases.

Minoxidil

Since the pandemic started, stress has played a major role in my hair loss, and it’s proving hard to coax hair out of the bald patch I developed a few months into 2020. There are some hairs, but progress has been slow, so I decided to up the ante and introduce topical Minoxidil into my hair routine alongside practising some stress busting techniques. While there are countless stimulating oils and scalp scrubs out there, the only proven topical hair growth treatment is Minoxidil, and this is recommended by trichologists, GPs and dermatologists. It doesn’t require a prescription and can be bought over the counter for at-home use. “Minoxidil is widely known as Regaine,” explains hair expert Dr Bessam Farjo of Farjo Hair Institute. “It is applied as a foam or lotion,” he adds. “These are the only FDA or MHRA-approved medications to treat patterned hair loss, but the combination of low-level laser and Minoxidil can be quite effective in women.”

Alongside laser, Dr Bessam Farjo recommends platelet rich plasma (PRP). Enitan Agidee, hair coach at Healthy Hair Studio, recently told R29 that this is especially beneficial for traction alopecia in afro hair. Here’s an honest review of both treatments.

My progress over the course of the last two years has been encouraging and my receding hair line is now home to lots of baby hairs that I hope will grow nice and long. I’ve noticed major signs of improvement thanks to a healthy diet, needle-based treatments, plus a reduction in heat usage and tight hairstyles. My hair is growing faster than ever before, is no longer dry, breaks far less and feels so much softer and looks shiny.

a person posing for the camera © Provided by Refinery29

After months of treatment, I’ve realised that addressing hair loss means looking at multiple factors, from lifestyle to styling practices and more; not just one thing. If I’ve learnt anything, though, it’s best not to wait years to treat hair loss. If private hair treatments aren’t an option for you, Dr Ejikeme hits home the importance of visiting your GP. My advice? Don’t allow yourself to be fobbed off, especially if your first specialist doesn’t have an understanding of afro hair. Ask for blood tests and to be referred to a dermatologist, trichologist or hair expert, who will be able to point you in the right direction.

Co-Washing Is Huge, But Is It Holding You Back From Your Best Hair Ever? .
If we were to sum up the world of natural haircare ranges and recommended routines, one phrase would spring to mind: it’s complicated. From the shelf-loads of products we try to the raved about methods and curl vernacular (plopping, anyone?), there is a lot to get to grips with in the curly community. But if you strip back the techniques and the various products, there’s one practice which is universally loved for curly and coily hair. Enter: co-washing. Currently, the co-washing hype on TikTok is huge as users document their shock at discovering their hair is curly for the first time.

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