Entertainment Chanel celebrates cinema industry to cap Paris Fashion Week
With picnic baskets, Christian Siriano puts on backyard show
WESTPORT, Conn. (AP) — Christian Siriano, who turned his atelier into a mask-making machine, took to his Connecticut backyard Thursday for a cozy fashion show complete with picnic baskets for his small in-person crowd, masks on the faces of his models and a dip in his pool for pregnant muse Coco Rocha. “We just needed an escape,” he told The Associated Press after his cheery parade of ball gowns, prints that included panels from comic books and looks emblazoned in black and white with a simple message: “VOTE."For the rest of the fashion industry, Siriano livestreamed the show on a sunny, mild day, with his garden as backdrop and his grass as runway.
PARIS (AP) — Monumental light-bulb encrusted letters spelling CHANEL sparkled over the runway at the Grand Palais on the last day of Paris Fashion Week prefacing a collection celebrating the cinema industry. It brought a pang of nostalgia for better times during this reduced virus-hit season that has been notable for its lack of star power.
Like Milan before it, Paris has undertaken an unusual fashion season for Spring-Summer 2021 because of the coronavirus pandemic. The nine-day calendar was a mix of ready-to-wear runway collections with masked guests in seated rows, in-person presentations and completely digital shows streamed online with promotional videos.
New on NOW TV and Sky Cinema in October 2020
With the sun hiding away at the end of summer and the kids back at school, Sky Cinema and NOW TV have an interesting crop of movies new and old for viewers to seek their teeth into as the rain inevitably falls outside. There’s a healthy amount of releases that featured heavily during the awards season conversation earlier in the year, including some terrific Black-led dramas like Just Mercy, Harrietand Waves. For the more blockbuster-minded, there’s also the Vin Diesel actioner Bloodshot and chilling horror The Invisible Man. Regular cinemagoers will have the chance to see something completely new with Sky Cinema original The Secret Garden.
Here are some highlights from Tuesday:
The American actors who usually attend Chanel, the highlight of Paris Fashion Week, stayed away. But designer Virginie Viard dreamed of more glamorous times. She produced an optimistic collection channeling the Hollywood or Cannes movie star machine and its media circus, appropriately placing French Oscar-winning actress Marion Cotillard on the front row.
“I was thinking about actresses at the photocall, coming off the red carpet: their faces a little distracted, their attitude a little out of sync with the outfits they’re wearing ... this very lively side to cinema that happens beyond cinema,” Viard said.
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It produced a diverse display of high-class glamour that mingled with the casual -- in a collection notable for its shoulder shapes that were exaggeratedly round and wide, or diagonal and flat.
For the high-class, there were ecru and black tweed skirt suits -- the house signature. The best was a stiff knit black number with giant round shoulders, uber-cinched waist, giant tubular arms and large white visible shirt cuffs and collar. It cut a beautiful silhouette against the pure-white illuminated runway.
Some of the casual looks, however let the collection down. Large prints in vibrant color, such as a turtle-neck and cross-over dress, featured blown-up letters spelling the house name to evoke neon lights. But the colors clashed and it sometimes seemed as if the designer was trying too hard to be hip.
That said, there were plenty of stand-out moments. A shoulderless black mini dress was the definition of chic, with a sheer silk black overskirt that fluttered gently to the ankles to sensually reveal the legs. A loose black silk top had dramatic swooshes of white feathers across it like a sash.
Former pub transformed into the ultimate party house with games room, cinema and football pitch in the garden
From pub to party pad
On a note of nostalgia, this could be one of the last Chanel shows in the Grand Palais for years. The venue has said it is closing from December 2020 to March 2023 for renovations, to reopen before the Paris Olympics of 2024.
This season's mission for powerhouse Louis Vuitton was to dissolve masculine and feminine in fashion.
“(To explore) a sensitive zone that erases gender and promises exponential creative possibilities. What does an in-between garment look like?” the house asked.
Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere used that as a cue for a diverse and colorful collection on models that often had androgynous looks and hairstyles. Fashion, as an industry, has been moving towards co-ed styles for some seasons now, and it is a pivotal moment when a house as powerful as Vuitton chooses to explore this theme so explicitly in clothes.
'Beginning' triumphs at San Sebastian Film Festival in Spain
SAN SEBASTIÁN, Spain (AP) — Georgian writer-director Dea Kulumbegashvili’s first feature film “Beginning” triumphed at Spain’s San Sebastian International Film Festival, scooping up four of its top prizes including best film and best director. The story about a community of Jehovah’s Witnesses in a isolated village in Georgia amid the aftermath of an extremist attack also won best screenplay and best actress for Ia Sukhitashvili in the awards ceremony Saturday night.
The collection mixed a sporty edge with flashes of menswear. While a cross-over wool coat in peach yellow with an angular T-shaped silhouette was probably for a woman, many other garments for spring-summer successfully delivered on the unisex (and very much on-trend) mission.
The buckled belt of a men’s trench coat was a leitmotif, appearing as an oversize version in tan, striped, black, white and laurel green, and its loose end was styled to hang down the leg.
A biker jacket was both oversize and cropped like a bolero. One standout piece was a V-neck sleeveless check knit sweater, with chic sage leather shoulders, that was so gargantuan it had a band fastening the bottom half to fit the model. It was likely a tongue-in-cheek reference to women who sometimes don their boyfriend’s sweater, and it was very cool.
Actresses Alicia Vikander and Lea Seydoux applauded vigorously from the front row.
VUITTON’S PENCHANT FOR THE CAMERAS
Fashion defines itself as an industry that is constantly changing. This is normally a positive thing, because moving forward to new ideas and ways of presenting fashion is how a trend is created, and that is the industry’s blood life.
Parisian label AMI parades models by the Seine for fashion week
Parisian label AMI parades models by the Seine for fashion weekThe brand, founded just under 10 years ago by designer Alexandre Mattiussi, is one of a reduced number presenting collections with physical events this season, after some labels opted for digital displays and videos for Paris Fashion Week.
Increasingly, houses stream their collections on Instagram and other outlets to democratize their products, something that is admirable and forward-looking. It helps make fashion relevant by opening it up beyond the 200 guests who are invited to a physical show.
But Louis Vuitton is one house that seems to have gone a little too trigger-happy in its bid to record and project its show digitally and that can distract from the viewing of the collection by editors, which is one of the show’s prime functions.
This phenomenon predates the coronavirus pandemic by several years.
At Tuesday’s show, some guests struggled to see the collection because of the over-100 cameras obstacles set up on poles in the Louis Vuitton runway. There were two camera poles next to almost every guest in the main runway hall.
When the collection started, large cameras on rollers moved up and down throughout.
MIU MIU DAZZLES WITH COLOR
Miuccia Prada’s little sister house of Miu Miu is known for its quirky designs with cerebral depths. This season, Prada delved into the sportswear of the 1980s and infused it with eye-popping color.
The collection seemed to have woven every single bright color in the chart into the 53 looks. It could be interpreted as a note of optimism in one of the darker chapters of the fashion industry.
Blood orange dazzled on a retro tracksuit top and sweat pants. Persian blue gleamed on a velvety turtle neck. Satin sheen gold added a contemporary touch on a vintage jacket and sporty split skirt. Elderberry formed the top section of a geometrically striped halterneck with a dark sporty sienna skirt that looked part Piet Mondrian and part Wimbledon.
London Film Festival offers beacon of hope to COVID-hit industry
London Film Festival offers beacon of hope to COVID-hit industryLONDON (Reuters) - The pizzazz of the red carpet will be lacking and fewer films will be on offer at this year's London Film Festival, but fans can still enjoy a broad programme, either on the big screen while socially distanced or streamed into their own homes.
One skirt was in one of the brightest colors that must surely have ever been seen on the Paris runway: A glowing pure citrine so strong that the silhouette could hardly be made out.
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