Food Ottolenghi's New Book Will Change the Way You Look at Onions
Chives vs. Green Onions
Green onions and chives need not confuse you anymore. Chives Chives are green herbs with long, green stems that are used for flavoring a dish at the end of cooking or as a garnish. Chives are in the lily family, but they're related to onions. Like onions, they are bulbous perennials, but you'll likely never see the bulbs unless you're a gardener. The bulbs are typically removed before they're packaged for the grocery store.
The cover of Yotam Ottolenghi and Ixta Belfrage's new cookbook,—which, the authors write, was almost named The Ottolenghi F-Bomb—is a sea of marble-sized shallots, bobbing among chestnuts, grapes, and garlic. Meanwhile, the U.K. cover is a Georgia O'Keefe–esque onion illustration. There’s a pattern here.
Of course, there are many more vegetables covered in a cookbook all about vegetables. (Of the 100 recipes, 45 are vegan, though flexitarian flavor boosters like eggs, anchovies, and Parmesan appear throughout.) You’ll find charred peppers with fresh corn polenta, cauliflower roasted in chile butter, tempura-fried beet stems with a tangerine dunk.
Where are the best pizzas in America? You tell us!
Every year, The Daily Meal compiles a ranking of the 101 best pizzas in America, featuring favorites like Frank Pepe in New Haven, Connecticut; Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco; and everything in between. And we want to know who dishes out your favorite pie for consideration on the list. This is a special list for those great local joints — chains aren’t included in this one. Click here to take the survey If you have a favorite pizza place in your town or somewhere you absolutely need to visit during vacations and road trips, let us know. All you need to do is fill out the Google Forms survey on this page.
But when I fever-flipped through the book for the first time, it was the alliums that hollered out to me. The fried onion rings studded with nigella and caraway seeds. The slouchy onion wedges roasted with just butter, miso, and water. The sweet-and-sour onion petals swimming in pomegranate juice and polka-dotted with creamy goat cheese.
In the excerpt below, the authors talk about the power of alliums. And yes, those three recipes are included, too.
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Behind so many delicious dishes, there’s often an onion or two at work. Chopped and added to the pan with some oil, the smell of an onion—or its relatives, shallot or leek—being cooked is one of expectation and promise: a meal is underway! If this all sounds a bit much, it wouldn’t be the first time we’ve been accused of onion-shaped hyperbole. Yotam once wrote in the Guardian newspaper that “every time we chop an onion and sweat it in oil, it changes from being something that makes us cry to something that makes us smile with joy.” A reader responded. “Every time?” wrote Brian Smith from Berlin. “Don’t be daft!” We couldn’t help but giggle. Brian clearly had a point—it’s a lot to put on a little onion—but we do stand by our strength of feeling. The transformation of onions from raw to cooked—from harsh and sulfurous to meltingly soft and sweet—does feel, to us, just a little bit like alchemy.
These easy grilled lobster tails are an essential end-of-summer dish
How do you grill lobster tails? That query is one of the most popular grilling questions in America, and we understand why. Although the king of the cookout is typically a perfectly cooked steak, grilled lobster tails are sure to add a little surf elegance to any turf this summer. Labor Day Recipes: Easy Grilling Recipes for the Holiday Weekend While cooking a lobster tail may seem overwhelming if you're not a grillmaster, it's actually quiteLabor Day Recipes: Easy Grilling Recipes for the Holiday Weekend
Peek behind the curtains of the magic show, though, and there’s a fair amount of solid science and practical process at play. Unlike other vegetables, the onion family accumulates energy stores not in starch but in chains of fructose sugars, which long, slow cooking breaks down to produce a marked sweetness. The longer and slower the cooking of the onions, either in the oven or in a pan on the stove, the sweeter and the more caramelized these sugars become. This gives rise to glutamic acid. And it’s this acid that gives rise to the big, yummy umami taste we’re so often in search of in Flavor.
So much of this work—providing the sweet, caramelized base to many dishes—is what’s going on when onions are behind the scenes, playing a background role. They’re always there in the sofrito or mirepoix base: the diced onions, celery, and carrots or peppers that are so often sweated down as the first step to a stew or soup. But this everyday way of using onions isn’t why they get a section all to themselves here. What we find so thrilling are all the instances in which onioniness becomes the “thing” a dish is all about. These are the thick fried onion rings with buttermilk and turmeric or the charred red milder Tropea onions bulking out a summery green gazpacho starter. They’re the sweet and sour onion petals stealing the show of anything they’re plated up with, or the yellow onions, simply peeled and halved, baked with miso and butter until melting. If anything, we’re thinking we need to be laying on a bit more hyperbole, Brian—not less!—to do justice to the onion.
Fall Cookbook Preview: The 39 Books We Want to Cook From Now
Thirty nine books, thousands of ways to bring a new joy to your fall cooking.If there’s one book out this fall that I think has true lasting power—you know, Joy of Cooking-level lasting power—it’s this one. Not to knock any of the other ambitious new books; it’s just that Nik Sharma’s latest is such a wild and well-researched resource, it’s hard to compete. Sharma is a cook’s cook. He’s able to elucidate even the most fancy techniques.
Reprinted from Ottolenghi Flavor. Copyright © 2020 by Yotam Ottolenghi and Ixta Belfrage. Photographs copyright © 2020 by Jonathan Lovekin. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.
This is the best way to make a holiday ham .
When you think about your holiday feast, your mind likely wanders to a tender brisket, prime rib or a juicy turkey. But there is one protein that deserves more than just being thrown in the oven and then on a platter, and that's ham. The popular weeknight staple is something you typically add to your holiday table, but it's rarely the star. That's all about to change thanks to this easy-to-make brown sugar glaze. 50-Plus Edible Holiday Gifts50-Plus Edible Holiday Gifts That Are as Fun to Make as They Are to Give