•   
  •   
  •   

Style When Brands Use Plus-Size Models and Don’t Make Plus-Size Clothes, It's Size Appropriation

20:15  08 june  2018
20:15  08 june  2018 Source:   racked.com

Padma Lakshmi Reveals the Strict Diet She Sticks to After All the Required Eating on Top Chef

  Padma Lakshmi Reveals the Strict Diet She Sticks to After All the Required Eating on Top Chef The host, 47, said she consumes “at least seven to eight thousand calories a day” while filming the Bravo show, but that the weight gain that goes along with it hasn’t scared her off from doing her job. The host, 47, said she consumes “at least seven to eight thousand calories a day” while filming the Bravo show, but that the weight gain that goes along with it hasn’t scared her off from doing her job.

Plus - size models are becoming more and more common, but plus - size clothes don ’ t always follow. Share When Brands Use Plus - Size Models and Don ’ t Make Plus - Size Clothes . With a 33-inch waist and 36-inch bust ( making her a US dress size 10/12), Duval is several sizes smaller

Plus - size models are becoming more and more common, but plus - size clothes don ’ t always follow. Share When Brands Use Plus - Size Models and Don ’ t Make Plus - Size Clothes . With a 33-inch waist and 36-inch bust ( making her a US dress size 10/12), Duval is several sizes smaller

a woman sitting on a bed: Plus-size models are becoming more and more common, but plus-size clothes don’t always follow.© Christina Animashaun/Vox Plus-size models are becoming more and more common, but plus-size clothes don’t always follow.

“Size appropriation” gets brands the brownie points without doing the work.

A few weeks ago, I was surprised to encounter a lone image of curve model Stella Duval in Madewell’s Instagram feed. Donning a slouchy-chic short-sleeve button-down and a whiskered pair of high-waisted denim, Duval served as the brand’s subtle way of rolling out its extended-size denim line.

A post shared by Madewell (@madewell) on


With a 33-inch waist and 36-inch bust (making her a US dress size 10/12), Duval is several sizes smaller than the average woman in the United States. Still, devoted fashionistas quickly latched onto the significance of her slightly-larger-than-modelesque figure among a sea of size zeroes.

Could Resale Shopping Overtake Fast Fashion?

  Could Resale Shopping Overtake Fast Fashion? Given fast fashion’s recent public scandals and financial troubles, maybe it isn’t so crazy.It seems pretty incredible that those names could outsell Zara and H&M, but according to what ThredUp’s co-founder told WWD, “The closet of the future is going to look very different from the closet of today.” Given fast fashion’s recent public scandals and financial troubles, maybe that isn’t so crazy.

The conversation around clothes above a size 12 and the people who wear them has become more mainstream, but the contents of the We’re here to ask brands that claim it ’ s very difficult to make plus - size clothing what the data on that is. We’re here to dismantle the conflation of the current body

When brands use plus - size models but don ’ t make plus - size clothes , they get the brownie points without doing the work. On skinny privilege and the self-defeating myth of “pulling it off.” [Nylon]. Eagles player Malcolm Jenkins delivered a powerful response to the White House snub.

One commenter remarked, “I’m so excited about the curvy fit!” while another breathlessly exclaimed, “THANK YOU FOR ADDING BIGGER SIZES!!!! AND INCLUDING BIGGER GIRLS IN YOUR VISUALS!! I’M LITERALLY DYING WITH EXCITEMENT!!!!!!!!!” Concurrently, news outlets variously lauded the expansion as “progressive” and “empowering.”

In the days that followed, however, it came to pass that this was perhaps not the inclusive turn that so many had been waiting for. Madewell’s new line was restricted to fewer than a dozen pairs of denim in a limited range of colors and fits; the select pairs were only available online and had sold out in a matter of hours. Adding insult to injury, across the website, the “curvy” jeans — a term now almost universally used to designate larger-than-standard sizes now that “plus size” has become passé — were confoundingly modeled by slender women.

Alaska Airlines is shrinking the size of carry-on luggage

  Alaska Airlines is shrinking the size of carry-on luggage Horizon and SkyWest are, too.

And when it comes to brands , the story is no different. Retailers like H&M and Target have been " Plus - sized women should have access to clothes that are in style but also flatter their body types She added: "Overall, women over a size 22, or just plus women in general, have less options than

Plus size clothing is designed and cut for those with larger than average bodies. The degree of difference between the sizes may or may not be significant. Each manufacturer uses its own measurements to determine plus sizes and, as with most brands , women will notice that some

It also turned out that the sizes had been mislabeled. While the company claimed that the jeans went up to a size 20, the waist circumference of the jeans better corresponded to a size 14, just barely surpassing the straight/plus threshold. Madewell declined to comment on this issue.

This was hardly a revolution; it was inclusivity with an asterisk.

What really struck me about the Madewell denim launch, however, was the use of Duval’s image in its rollout and promotion. While the plus-size fashion industry is currently experiencing something of a renaissance, it nevertheless remains a hotly contested terrain. If Madewell was not really serious about catering to women with “nonstandard” bodies, then why did the company dare to flirt with controversy by using Duval as the face of the campaign?

Although retailers and consumers continue to grapple with how to refer to fat women’s bodies and their dress, a growing number of mainstream retailers have seemed to suddenly jump on the plus-size fashion bandwagon. Much as with Madewell, however, these launches have not been without problems.

Alaska Airlines trims carry-on bag dimensions

  Alaska Airlines trims carry-on bag dimensions Tucked away in a recent Alaska Airlines blog post with travel tips for carry-on luggage is a notification that the airline will reduce the acceptable maximum dimensions for carry-ons starting in June. “Our current carry-on bag size is larger than most other international and domestic airlines allow,” Alaska  said on its website. “We’re changing our bag size allowance to make sure that your carry-on bag will be accepted aboard all the flights within your itinerary. This will help you avoid carry-on bag size conflicts and make connections with other airlines easier during your future trips.

However, last week, plus size activist Callie Thorpe questioned why Topshop ‘will go as far to make clothing for people who can already find clothes in their Rob Williams is from Hawthorn, a clothing manufacturer based in London, and he confirmed that the process of designing plus size clothing is

Our lovely plus size work clothes are great for more casual offices, too! Look sharp and stylish in a pastel blouse with a Peter Pan collar paired with Enjoy 15% off your first order when you join our mailing list. Plus, we’ll hook you up with the best deals, first looks, & all the perks. Don ' t know about

It raises some big questions: What precipitated this inclusive turn, and, perhaps more importantly, who ultimately benefits when mainstream retailers use images of fat women in their promotional and marketing materials? If it’s not the consumers who identify as such, then it must be the brands. Yet when fat becomes fashionable — even as women whose bodies place them beyond the spectrum of standard sizes do not reap the benefits — it’s tantamount to appropriation.

Fashioning Fat Stigma

For the past eight years, I’ve been researching the history and culture of plus-size fashion. My research has exposed the fact that since the birth of ready-to-wear in the late 19th century (when plus sizes were charmingly known as “stoutwear”), the fashion industry has largely ignored the clothing needs of fat women. At the same time, images of non-slender and nonwhite bodies are nowhere to be found within the pages of the high-fashion press and in advertising culture at large.

The industry’s marginalization of plus-size fashion stands markedly and puzzlingly at odds with consumer demand. As Business Insider recently estimated, plus-size fashion is worth $21 billion annually that has gone largely untapped, save for a handful of flash-in-the-pan diffusion lines, high-low collaborations, and pop-ups.

Kim Kardashian West Is Reportedly Calling Her Lingerie Line 'Kimono Intimates'

  Kim Kardashian West Is Reportedly Calling Her Lingerie Line 'Kimono Intimates' The Kardashian-Jenner clan doesn't have a great track record with cultural appropriation.It's not a terrific move considering the Kardashian-Jenner family's track record with cultural appropriation and accusations of copying looks and designs. In January, Kim was heavily criticized not only for wearing cornrows, but for attributing them to white actress Bo Derek, while Kylie Jenner and Khloé Kardashian have both been accused of stealing designs from black designers, with Kylie allegedly plagiarizing Tizita Balemlay's Plugged NYC label and Khloé allegedly copying indie designer Destiney Bleu, whom Khloé reportedly legally threatened.

Plus - size fashion once had a bad reputation for being full of unimaginative clothing without a sleek silhouette or trend-driven style to speak of. Eloquii garnered a loyal following during its time as part of The Limited. Today, it ’ s a freestanding company with the same quality and beauty attributed to the

It makes sense to use marketing to remove this stigma, and to tell women that the size you are isn' t When JCPenney launched its newest line of apparel in April, it purposefully made sure to cater to Our juniors plus brands and our modern contemporary plus size collections, including our newest

A post shared by Outdoor Voices (@outdoorvoices) on


This is because up until very recently, plus-size fashion has been regarded as both patently unfashionable and commercially risky, if not irresponsible. If the high priest and priestess of fashion — Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour — declared as late as the aughts that “nobody wants to see curvy women on the runway,” and derided unassuming Midwesterners as “little houses,” what incentive did the Célines and Balenciagas (let alone the H&Ms and Zaras) of the world have to cater to women of size? Amid the media hysteria surrounding the global obesity epidemic, few retailers dared wade into this cultural maelstrom, lest they be accused of glamorizing obesity by armchair “experts” and internet trolls.

Although the fashion industry certainly has a longway to go toward being truly inclusive, there has nevertheless been a positive and perceptible shift over the past several years as brands have worked to incorporate more diverse and inclusive-looking casts of models into their runway presentations and advertising campaigns.

Once the purview of a small but vocal community of internet activists, fat acceptance has gone mainstream via the decidedly safer and more marketable body positivity movement. It’s because of this that Ashley Graham was able to grace the cover of Voguealongside Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, albeit with a strategically placed hand that partially obfuscated her fleshy bronzed thigh. As consumers increasingly expect to see themselves represented within the rarefied spaces of fashion, companies can no longer get away with openly discriminating against fat people (cough, Abercrombie, cough, Lululemon).

There Were No Plus-Sized People At The Met Gala

  There Were No Plus-Sized People At The Met Gala C'mon guys, it's 2018.At the Met Gala, anything goes. The wilder the look, the better. But among the crazy outfits and over-the-top headdresses at this year's Heavenly Bodies-themed event, there was one thing you didn't see: plus-size representation.

It ' s undeniable that the fashion industry is plus - size -averse. There's the passive discrimination of framing most dialogue around straight sizes only, and then there's the very Beyond that, there's also a frustrating production barrier that prevents plus - size clothing from being made in the first place.

Earlier this year, Sports Illustrated made national headlines for featuring a plus - size model on the " It ' s not something that was happening in our day at Ford." So what is making brands finally pay Curvy models , too, are using social media to raise their profile in a way that wouldn' t have been

Curves With a Conscience?

Madewell is therefore just one out of a handful of woker-than-thou brands that over the past year have begun to use representations of nonstandard bodies in their marketing materials, ostensibly to win ethical brownie points. While this practice is still certainly far from widespread, the brands that have dabbled in inclusive imagery seem to fit a certain millennial pink profile.

Early last year, Outdoor Voices tipped off this “trend” by hiring curve model and actress Barbie Ferreira to “Do Things” in their tastefully color-blocked leggings and bra tops. Shortly afterward, Glossier unfurled a three-story banner prominently featuring Paloma Elsesser’s shimmering belly rolls on the side of a building on Spring Street to launch its Body Hero line of moisturizers, body washes, and oils. Thereafter, Madewell and parent company J.Crew featured plus-size models wearing not-so-plus-size clothes in their ads and on their e-commerce websites. Most recently, Everlane took one right out of Glossier’s playbook and painted a mural of a fresh-faced curve model named Chloé Véro sporting its new cotton panties onto the side of the Dos Caminos at West Broadway and Houston.

A post shared by Paloma Elsesser (@palomija) on


Besides serving the 18- to 35-year-old, white, city-dwelling, Hillary-voting, chemical-exfoliating demographic, what all these brands have in common is the fact that they do not cater to the plus-size market in any meaningful way.

Study: Normalization of Plus-Size Culture Carries Health Risk

  Study: Normalization of Plus-Size Culture Carries Health Risk A new study found that people underestimate their body weight. And the rise in the normalization of "plus-size" may not be helping.People may be underestimating their weight and their increasing risk of obesity because of the normalization of "plus-size" body shapes.

Having a ' plus size ' label on clothes is unfortunately still necessary—because women over a size 14 Where this becomes problematic is when ' plus size ' becomes a qualifier for people and their Stripped down, it ’ s just a descriptive phrase used in the industry to describe clothing above a certain

Because this @boohoo plus size dress IS FIVE WHOLE POUNDS more expensive than the main collection #fattax pic.twitter.com/0lCyq88atn. The use of non-plus models to represent plus - size lines encourages body dysmorphia, especially when [Boohoo’ s ] target market is largely young women

Looking at Everlane specifically, what was ironic about its much-ballyhooed panty rollout was the fact that, although it used a curve model as the face and body of the campaign, the range only goes up to a size XL, which corresponds to a 32.75-inch waist, or approximately a size 10 (a.k.a. not plus-size).

Moreover, and much as with Madewell’s extended sizes, most of the larger-size bras sold out on the same day of the launch. While it’s possible that droves of caffeine-addled, fashion-starved plus-size consumers were hitting refresh at 12:01 am on launch day to get their hands on those conservative cotton sets and distressed denim, it’s more likely the brands simply didn’t make full runs of the collections.

Commenters on Everlane’s Instagram feed were quick to address the sartorial bait-and-switch. One woman hit the nail on the head when she said, “XL being your biggest size is not exactly groundbreaking.”

Everlane has become known for its transparency, in terms of its ethical manufacturing practices and with regard to its no-BS approach to customer service. When it comes to questions about sizing, however, the otherwise gregarious social media team has been tight-lipped. One persistent commenter called out the brand on this hypocrisy, stating, “I think we all deserve a response as to your lack of size inclusivity in all your clothing. Ethical fashion should be accessible for all sizes.”

Everlane did not respond to requests for comment on this topic.

A New Term: Size Appropriation

The fashion industry is no stranger to the practice of commodifying the likenesses, dress styles, and traditions of marginalized consumer groups to whom it actively does not cater. Most often, this has taken the form of borrowing or outright stealing from racial and ethnic minorities in a practice that has been variously deemed “cultural appropriation” and, more recently, “racial plagiarism,” a phrase coined by the fashion scholar Minh-Ha T. Pham.

Super-Tall Supermodel Karlie Kloss’ Shoe Size Will Surprise You

  Super-Tall Supermodel Karlie Kloss’ Shoe Size Will Surprise You Karlie Kloss is arguably one of the tallest models in the fashion industry standing at statuesque 6 foot 2. For comparison, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid are 5 foot 10, while Bella Hadid is only 5 foot 9. However, the newly engaged Victoria’s Secret alum has relatively small feet for her towering height. Kloss reportedly wears a shoe size 9, which while on the larger side, is actually somewhat surprising due to how tall she is. You’d think that the Carolina Herrera favorite would be a size 10 or larger since she’s over 6 foot tall. However, height and foot size often doesn’t seem to align. For example, Paris Hilton, who is 5 foot 8, wears a size 11 shoe.

Women not only have " plus - size " clothing , but also a rising group of outspoken so-called " plus - size models " "One reason is that nobody makes clothes for them," Carroll said. " It ' s just not there." The other brand noticed for using a plus - size male model is Target, which employed Zach Miko to

Even as an increasingly out-of-touch Marc Jacobs continues to parade white models donning dreadlocks and turbans down his runways, the rest of the industry is slowly coming to grips with this unethical (but not illegal) practice of cultural cherry-picking.

Within this enlightened context, however, it’s still open season for discriminating against and marginalizing fat female consumers, even as more brands jump on the body-positivity bandwagon in acts of what could only be deemed size appropriation.

A post shared by Everlane (@everlane) on


Fashion and shopping continue to be derided within our male-dominated culture as frivolous; however, fashion makes our bodies decent and appropriate, and it would therefore not be an overstatement to suggest that the exceedingly ordinary practice of shopping is not only a key facet of American culture and identity but a basic right.

Yet even if the industry is finding it harder and harder to get away with racial discrimination, size discrimination is very much a thing and is merely a symptom of a much more endemic problem.

The idea of size appropriation addresses the fact that the sanitized, “safe” images of curvier-than-average models jumping, running, and posing in various states of undress that populate your Instagram feed and clog your inbox are not created for the plus-size consumer whom these brands do not serve. Rather, they are created for normatively sized consumers who get to enjoy the moral satisfaction of patronizing brands that outwardly seem to fit their liberal worldview.

For them, it might feel good to publicly “like” an image of an evidently healthy, happy plus-size model even as they might still harbor some private stigmas and fears of epidemic obesity.

For the brands, these images of pleasantly plump models squeezed into larges and extra-larges portray the appearance of inclusivity without actually having to go to the considerable trouble of reconfiguring their sizing and grading systems for the 67 percent of the population that is plus-size.

For culture at large, these visuals establish new standards for what a fat body should look like (i.e., 5-foot-11 with a Coke-bottle waist and a chiseled jaw). Perhaps more problematically, they promotea false narrative that we live in a society that has evolved beyond fat stigma, even as fat women continue to be employed at lower rates and earn less on average than their slender counterparts.

And for fat women, these images merely serve as constant reminders of their outsider status.

Lauren Downing Peters holds a PhD in fashion studies from Stockholm University and is the editor-in-chief of The Fashion Studies Journal.

Super-Tall Supermodel Karlie Kloss’ Shoe Size Will Surprise You .
Karlie Kloss is arguably one of the tallest models in the fashion industry standing at statuesque 6 foot 2. For comparison, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid are 5 foot 10, while Bella Hadid is only 5 foot 9. However, the newly engaged Victoria’s Secret alum has relatively small feet for her towering height. Kloss reportedly wears a shoe size 9, which while on the larger side, is actually somewhat surprising due to how tall she is. You’d think that the Carolina Herrera favorite would be a size 10 or larger since she’s over 6 foot tall. However, height and foot size often doesn’t seem to align. For example, Paris Hilton, who is 5 foot 8, wears a size 11 shoe.

—   Share news in the SOC. Networks

Topical videos:

This is interesting!