Style One Designer's Bold New Idea: Custom Clothes That Change With You
“Wearing Her Pieces Makes Each Day Feel Special”—10 Friends Celebrate a Decade of Simone Rocha
As Simone Rocha releases a sustainable collaboration with H&M—think puff-sleeved tulle dresses and pearl-encrusted headbands—we get to know the designer via her family and friends.Of the 20-plus collections designed by Rocha, there are a few that she looks on with particular fondness. First is fall 2014 with its “strength and straightforwardness” and the historical Anne Boleyn references; the show at Tate Modern was the last Wilson attended, making it even more poignant for the designer.
Savile Row is the Mount Olympus of men’s tailoring. Well-dressed men from around the world travel to London in hopes of going from mere mortals to tailored gods with a new customized suit. And even if you can't make it to the Row, there are plenty of suitmakers around the world who can whip you up a custom job. But while these codes of customized men’s tailoring own the hearts of traditional dapper dandies worldwide, there’s only so much you can do with an adjusted hem or fitted waist to stay fashionable. What happens if you want something new? You can change the garment, but giving it a whole new look to stay feeling fresh? That’s outside of the norm.
Tour the Pink Brooklyn Home of Actors Rose Byrne and Bobby Cannavale
Frederick Tang Architecture transformed this Boerum Hill brownstone for the couple and their two young children . “When they purchased the house, it was configured as two apartments, each divided into a series of smaller rooms,” Frederick remembers. “The top floor had a really low ceiling, so the biggest task was reorganizing the home to make it work for their family. We turned it back into a single-family home, raised the roof so that the top floor felt larger, and opened up the house as much as we could front to back.
That is, until Steven Passaro came along. After graduating from the London College of Fashion two years ago, the Paris-based designer set out with a vision to challenge the rules of bespoke menswear by transforming what it means to have a unique garment. By its very definition, bespoke means a level of customization. But there are stark limits to how the garment can be transformed. And while Passaro quickly pays respect to these traditions, his interest in reinventing bespoke has brought him to create a new method of personalization in the menswear sphere.
“I actually just watched a documentary about Savile Row,” he says. “ and I always look to tailors for guidance because I’m a freak when it comes to how things fit.” In mid-March, Passaro released his second collection, a severely romantic group of pieces including a long black jacket equipped with a basting detail, a handmade silk veil, a three-layered plissé trouser, and a double-breasted velvet sequined jacket. But while the details and well-cut pieces allude to Passaro’s deep skill in craftsmanship, a new concept—he calls them “—suggests a new approach to bespoke menswear.
This Brooklyn Apartment Is Full of Hidden Storage
Form and function, without the clutter.The only problem? Though the Park Slope building where the couple had purchased a new apartment was a landmark, the unit itself, recalls Fuer,“was pretty much a vanilla box. There was no character or style to it.
Say you love one of Passaro’s trench coats. To get one, you go into a fitting, where the designer measures it to your body. After it’s delivered, you wear it out and feel like you're the king of moody weather. A year goes by, and like many garments, the trench coat’s splendor fades a bit. It’s natural. But instead of buying a whole new coat and going through the pain of finding that perfect fit, you can take the piece back to Passaro. There, he’ll turn the coat into something almost new by placing a customized add-on. You know the feeling you get when you find a new way to style your favorite pair of shoes? It’s like that, but for the rest of your closet.
The demonstration on his site illustrates an option of adding a contemporary-shaped plate of textile, or a sash-like element to the scarf, but the designer assures that the options are malleable. “I’m always changing like a river. And I’m also a Pisces, so I’m very emotional,” Passaro jokes. “But, like myself, people are constantly growing and changing, too. People’s taste in clothes can take many dips and I wanted to create something that would create a longer-lasting connection with our clothes.”
There Are Four Cozy Window Nooks In the Family Room of This New York Farmhouse
Every room is a kid paradise.
In Passaro’s conception, evolutive garments aren’t just about refreshing your closet. The added-on accessories and layers of clothing are made from deadstock fabrics, giving both the fabrics and chosen garment a second life, all while reducing the consumer’s carbon footprint. According to Passaro, sustainability was of utmost importance when conceiving his brand. He cites Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard’s thoughts on the matter. “He says that ‘everything man makes causes more harm than good’ and that we need to find ways that do less harm. That thought is always at the forefront of the brand,” Passaro says. Accordingly, he skips the standard four collections-per-year practice because it’s a “complete waste”; all his products are made-to-order, so nothing is created in bulk. “Of course, there are things we can improve and that we are working out,” he says.
Evolutive garments aren’t the only disruptor to the bespoke arena. Earlier in January, men’s custom-fitting looks found a new home inThe season before, .
Meet the Designer Duo Turning Baroque Paintings Into Fashion-Forward Jeans
The mysterious Austrian couple behind Instagram favorite Ebony Tylah open up their eclectic world of medieval books and Renaissance art printed onto denim and mesh.Upon messaging this faceless brand, it turned out to be the brainchild of two designers, Antonia Boss and Tim Hartmann. While the pair both studied in Vienna (at the Herbststrasse Fashion School and University of Applied Arts, respectively) and graduated in 2019, their first meeting took place in a more unlikely locale two years earlier—their shared hometown of Bregenz, near the Swiss border, where they were both working at a lakeside opera festival.
Can these renditions truly follow suit to the Olympic gods sitting on the Row?, a tailor who’s spent more than 20 years on Savile Row, thinks there’s a chance. “Something needs to happen on Savile Row,” Marsh says. “Bespoke has been too limited to suits, but we have a lot more to offer. And I think it’s great that people are finding more ways to celebrate the craftsmanship.” He has been working to find ways to bridge the legacy of Savile Row and the now more common “casual” attire. Additional to suits, the tailor also uses his Savile Row hand in offering made-to-measure bomber and blouson jackets.
For his part, Passaro plans to expand his program to shirts, trousers, and knitwear. It’s about more than categories, though. “These bespoke services offer an intimate connection with consumer, tailor, and garments that is far too rare nowadays,” Passaro says. Savile Row suits offer a glimpse of the past, while Evolutive Garments exemplify a promising future—and in the present, both will play a part in defining (or redefining) the future of high-end bespoke tailoring.
Alber Elbaz’s “Humble’s Gift”—Revisit This 2005 Profile of the Designer by Sally Singer .
“Humble’s Gift” was originally published in the March 2005 issue of Vogue. It is republished here in memory of Alber Elbaz, who died on Saturday in Paris. How did Alber Elbaz transform the house of Lanvin into the fashion world’s most-wanted label? By proving, Sally Singer writes, that vulnerability and modesty are not antithetical to chic. This season, warm is the new cool. A typical Alber Elbaz story—which the 43-year-old designer for Lanvin is as likely as anybody to tell—casts him in the role of the outsider who cannot quite believe that the velvet rope has been raised to admit him to the party.