Style Maxine Bédat Unravels The Lies of Greenwashing

09:15  10 june  2021
09:15  10 june  2021 Source:   elle.com

Maxine Waters 'requested air marshal for Derek Chauvin trial flight'

  Maxine Waters 'requested air marshal for Derek Chauvin trial flight' Waters is said to have requested two air marshals accompany her on a flight to Minneapolis, despite allegedly already having two US Capitol cops and Secret Service agents alongside her.Waters is said to have requested the marshals for a flight to Minnesota on April 17, despite allegedly already having two US Capitol Police and Secret Service members to protect her.

a close up of a logo: style points © . style points

Style Points is a weekly column about how fashion intersects with the wider world.

Maxine Bédat swears she began with a fairly modest aim: to tell the life story of a pair of jeans, from a humble cotton plant nestled in the soil to the flares hanging in your closet—and even extending into their potential afterlife as discarded landfill junk. "It's not that I set out to connect the dots," she says of the continent-crisscrossing reporting that took her everywhere from a Texas farm to a factory in Bangladesh and a landfill in Ghana. Nevertheless, those disparate dots come together to tell a story of consumption and waste in her new book Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment. "In telling the story," she says, "one does begin to see how these things are connected."

'Run the World''s Amber Stevens West Didn't Put Her Family on Hold for Work, She Asked for Help

  'Run the World''s Amber Stevens West Didn't Put Her Family on Hold for Work, She Asked for Help Amber Stevens West picks up the phone at 9:00 a.m., sounding enthusiastic and well-rested as ever — despite having been awake since the crack of dawn. But such is the life of the optimistic actor, who is currently pregnant, raising a 2-year-old, and busy promoting her new show, Run the World. “No, it’s not Gaga on the phone,” she tells her daughter, laughing. “I’m gonna leave the room so they can play,” she then says to me, leaving her sister, interim babysitter, to occupy the sprightly toddler as we speak.

Every exploration took Bédat down a different path, whether it was researching how female garment workers in 19th-century New York City helped develop modern-day labor protections in the wake of the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire, or the way the history of cotton production was intertwined with the history of slavery in America. "The story of our clothing helps explain the story of our world," she says. "I didn't totally understand that when I set out, but I certainly became more aware of it as I was writing."

a person posing for the camera: Maxine Bédat © Courtesy of the subject. Maxine Bédat

Bédat is the founder and director of the New Standard Institute, a nonprofit that describes itself as a "think and do tank" for raising the fashion industry's consciousness. She previously co-founded the ethical e-commerce site Zady, and her experience on that side of the industry has informed her activism and writing. An issue like workplace safety in factories, for example, "is so shrouded in secrecy, because the companies themselves don't know and are scared to know" how their business actually operates, she says. She remembers going to a fashion conference where attendees could fill out an anonymous survey about their concerns: "What was keeping these brand managers up at night? It was that there was going to be a factory disaster in a factory that they didn't even know that they were sourcing from."

Clean Beauty Has a Misinformation Problem

  Clean Beauty Has a Misinformation Problem A lot of what you believe right now is completely false. We’re here to set the record straight.The clean beauty movement is new and evolving—and also complicated and confusing. Even the exact definition of “clean beauty” itself is still hotly debated by pretty much everyone in the community. And because the messaging around clean beauty products isn’t regulated either, a brand can claim anything it wants about its supposedly clean/green/sustainable products, and there’s no governing body to fact-check it. Not ideal.

a close up of text on a black background: Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment © Bookshop Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment


Shop Now

Another little-discussed side of fashion she discovered was the afterlife of the clothes we donate, which are often sent to landfills and even incinerated. "There is a complete lack of knowledge, from the companies themselves and even from the donation centers, of what happens to clothing once it's been either donated or thrown out," she says. "We have this assumption that it's going someplace where people will value it, but we have to move beyond that assumption." While many brands have recently started their own recycling programs to combat this problem, she says that only a "very, very small percentage can actually get recycled into other garments. The bulk of it is sorted and then baled and shipped off. It's just a complete fabrication at the moment, this idea of circularity. I think it's one of the more dangerous and insidious concepts out there."

Burrata Boards Are the Ultimate Summer Entertaining Dish

  Burrata Boards Are the Ultimate Summer Entertaining Dish Serve this sweet and savory food board at your next outdoor dinner party. If you haven't had it before, burrata is a ball of solid mozzarella cheese with a hollow center that's usually filled with cream. And a burrata board is exactly what it sounds like: A charcuterie-type spread arranged around the creamy cheese. It's the perfect summer snack because it pairs perfectly with both sweet summer fruits and fresh savory flavors.

Before her stints at NSI and Zady, Bédat was a lawyer, which might explain her ability to systematically dismantle some of fashion's most beloved greenwashing language. She takes issue with the term "sustainability" itself, arguing at one point that there's no such thing as sustainable fashion, just lower-impact fashion. "It's not that I want to pooh-pooh legitimate efforts," she says. "We need them and we need to encourage [them.] But when we label things as'sustainable fashion,' we ignore the most important relationship, which is not how the garment is made. It is our relationship to it; how often we are wearing it. That is what drives resource reduction." Bédat is more bullish on upcycling, which has been used with great success by everyone from Balenciaga to inventive young designers like Conner Ives and Patrick McDowell. "If we are to have an industry that exists within the resources of the planet," she says, "it's going to be from using existing material."

a close up of a tree: Where it all begins: tiny cotton plants on a Texas farm. © Courtesy of Maxine Bédat. Where it all begins: tiny cotton plants on a Texas farm.

Another, less tangible problem Bédat taps into is the way the fashion industry has conditioned us to want ever-newer things. At one point, she notes, we might only have seen desirable images of potential purchases once a month in magazines. Now, thanks to the Internet and social media, we're seeing them constantly (and people are already shopping their way through the post-pandemic rush.) When I mention in passing that people naturally want new things, Bédat points out the extent to which that's actually down to conditioning over nature. "It's not like we want new stuff all the time. We're just sent a lot of messages to buy things all the time," she says. Social media then turns into a self-reinforcing feedback loop, prodding us to value "cost per like" over cost per wear. She has particularly stinging words for celebrities and influencers who urge their followers to constantly buy, buy, buy: "Getting a brand deal is their way to have the house next to the billionaire, but what is that actually doing for the world?"

6 Things I Know Are True: My Journey With Mental Health

  6 Things I Know Are True: My Journey With Mental Health The writer shares what she has learned on her journey about mental health as she has struggled with mental illness, what she can remind herself is true when her brain is lying to her.That’s what I said to a dear friend when she was going through severe depression. It’s what I tell myself when I can feel the self-doubt and anxiety taking over.

a person standing posing for the camera: The author of Unraveled on why she doesn't subscribe to the term © Maxine Bedat The author of Unraveled on why she doesn't subscribe to the term "sustainable fashion."

That said, our personal consumption is far from the only factor at play—there's also the matter of what we can accomplish with our own grassroots tactics. The last chapter of the book focuses on political action people can take, refreshingly moving beyond the "carbon footprint" model of placing all responsibility on individuals. Corporations, she notes, want us to "see ourselves as consumers over and above our role as citizens." Bédat doesn't want despair to be the takeaway from her book; she wants to give us solutions as well. What she was trying to do "was to explain where things are now in an unvarnished way, but in, so doing, also explain that we have the power to change these things.

"The book," she insists, "is not meant to be a downer."

Subway was sued for allegedly mislabeling its tuna as tuna. The New York Times tried to get to the bottom of the mystery. .
"No amplifiable tuna DNA was present in the sample," a commercial lab wrote in its results. "Therefore, we cannot identify the species."The country's biggest sandwich chain called the lawsuit meritless and maintains it buys only skipjack and yellowfin tuna from fisheries with stocks that aren't overfished.

usr: 2
This is interesting!