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Style Visionary New Designer Paolo Carzana Conjures a Magical World During London Fashion Week

04:05  14 june  2021
04:05  14 june  2021 Source:   vogue.com

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Carzana ’s realm—Another World , he calls it—is a conjuring of spiritual healing, romantic, analog fantasy and a rootedness in craft, nature, and the hinterland of Welsh fairy mythologies. See his spring 2022 collection here. After a year of lockdown, a youthful, astonishing wave of creative resilience is flowing back to meet the world . Today’s revelation was the 18 tender, visionary looks Paolo Carzana hand made, completely alone, in his studio in Cardiff, Wales, along with a film and a show he shot on his phone.

Fashion Design BA alumnus Paolo Carzana has been named as a leading figure the positive fashion showroom which encourages and celebrate ethical practice in the fashion industry. Professor Andrew Groves, Paolo ’s design tutor, said: “It's great that London Fashion Week is supporting young designers that are challenging the processes and methods of the industry to create new outcomes that will be more sustainable and lead to changes to how the whole industry will work.

a woman wearing a dress © Vogue

After a year of lockdown, a youthful, astonishing wave of creative resilience is flowing back to meet the world. Today’s revelation was the 18 tender, visionary looks Paolo Carzana hand made, completely alone, in his studio in Cardiff, Wales, along with a film and a show he shot on his phone. “It’s really me creating what I don’t see,” he said. “Characters I imagine walking around protecting me.”

Carzana’s realm—Another World, he calls it—is a conjuring of spiritual healing, romantic, analog fantasy and a rootedness in craft, nature, and the hinterland of Welsh fairy mythologies: “I wanted to do things that have a delicate and fragile relation to the body,” he said. “It’s the idea that there’s an alternative way to do things, and an alternative world to exist in against the rise of fake, false, curated online reality and purposeless actions. Even though the country and the world is divided,” he said. “I wanted to show that we, who share the same beliefs, can be the antidote.”

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New York Fashion Week . London : DiscoveryLAB presents: Paolo Carzana in collaboration with TONI&GUY.

Men’s wear designer Paolo Carzana will make his London Fashion Week debut with the spring 2022 collection called “Another World .” This Central Saint Martins graduate said his new collection “very much focuses on an alternative gesture to the world today,” and is “an acknowledgment of all that is painful in such a divided world and working through it to arrive at a place where a focus can be on the wonderful.” He used antique deadstock ties bought from Portobello Market years ago, antique Welsh quilts that were hand draped and painted with natural pigments, and a mix of homemade natural dyes

Emerging at the end of the rollercoaster of anxiety and fear that has hit all students and graduates forced home during the pandemic, Carzana’s highly original visualization of a completely self-imagined speculative place of solace—hand-sewn exclusively with materials he’d collected and dyed with natural pigments—is a debut that places him as an isolated leader-hero of Gen Z’s fiercely sensitive values. Not to mention, a wonder to the fashion world at large.

Insider eyes have been on Carzana’s outlier talent—in ways that are bound to draw comparisons to Alexander McQueen or John Galliano in their student days—since he graduated from Westminster University with a BA in 2018, with a vastly dramatic, entirely vegan and organically-sourced collection, “The Boy You Stole.” After winning an MA scholarship to Central Saint Martins from Kering and the BFC on the strength of his quietly messianic dedication to inventing sustainable practices, he graduated in 2020. Then, like his peers the world over, he suddenly found himself back at home, thrown on his own resources.

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This year, 10 designers were selected to show their work to the public and a jury panel in the hope of being named the winner of the Fashion Makes Sense Award 2018. The FMSA consists of two awards: the jury prize worth € 2.500,- and the public prize worth € 500,-. After a vibrant presentation of the models, the jury prize was awarded to Paolo Carzana , while the public prize was awarded to SANDERMANN. Designer Gal Yakobovitch received a special mention by the jury, consisting of Iris Ruisch (M-ODE.net), Milou van Rossum ( fashion editor at NRC), Borre Akkersdijk (BYBORRE) and

Viimeisimmät twiitit käyttäjältä Paolo Carzana (@paolocarzana). Imagine we could be the ones to change IT all. Wales. Uusi Twitterissä? Rekisteröidy. Paolo Carzana .

Now, Carzana is part of this London Fashion Week’s digital showcase—but equally he’s living proof of the new-generation reality that not everything needs to happen in London, or within any fashion capital, for that matter. On a Zoom call from the low-rent studio he’s found on Cardiff’s docks—themselves a site of regional post-industrial regeneration—he explained, “I identify as Welsh, not British, through my mother’s family. I was born here in Cardiff, and it’s almost full circle. I found out that my grandpa did his apprenticeship in this building years ago.” He shot his collection in the Cardiff Coal Exchange, transforming models from a new local agency into “changelings from a fantasy world.”

From their fairy bonnets to their fabric ghillie slippers, everything was twisted and sculpted from bamboo silk, organic cotton, pineapple leather and antique Welsh tapestry blankets and quilts; materials saved up from Carzana’s years in school. Instead of zippers and buttons, he devised delicate systems of ribbons and knots for wearers to tie on trousers, underwear, dresses and jackets. “It’s very much molded around the body,” he said. A series of diaphanous “open heart” shirts, stretched to expose the chest, spoke of vulnerability—and seem likely to be an instant signature hit item. “I don’t want it to be, like, sexualized,” he said. “But it's an alternative way of feeling; feeling you’re in control of the garment.”

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Paolo Carzana сделал(-а) публикацию в Instagram: “THE BOY WHO CAME BACK TO LIFE - JUNE 2020 - London Fashion Week Digital image - reece owen make up…” • Посмотрите все фото и видео @farfallapaolino в его/ее профиле.

Designer and Luxury. Ones to Watch: London Fashion Week June Edition. WWD spotlights Ben Osborn, LYPH, Shek Leung, Azura Lovisa, Mayya Agayeva and Paolo Carzana ahead of the three-day digital showcase. In an exclusive preview, creative director Rocco Iannone and chief brand diversification officer Nicola Boari mapped out their vision and strategy as Ferrari prepares to hold its first luxury fashion show on Sunday.

Carzana gestured behind him to the stove with the industrial pans in which he mixed up the natural dyes he’s been experimenting with since he was at Westminster. He used madder root, raspberries and strawberries to dye things pink to deep red; turmeric to make his greens and yellow-golds; logwood and lavender to turn things shades of purple. Infusions of lavender and rose oil, holy basil and witch hazel added elements he hopes will transfer healing properties. “It’s come from being vegan and eating organic, and wanting to do everything right,” he said. “I’ve been reading a book that has hundreds of medicinal plants, just going through and looking at things which have been used for centuries.”

Through the dark times, something incredible is emerging: a reformation, a regeneration from the hands of the youngest. Paolo Carzana represents that struggle into the light. “I really wanted to symbolize and have a memory book of this moment of just being on my own, and always be able to remember this period,” he said. “And trying to make a beautiful memory of it.”

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This is interesting!