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Style Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why?

02:35  27 october  2021
02:35  27 october  2021 Source:   vogue.com

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  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Photo: John Rawlings, October 1940 issue of *Vogue*

When Travis Barker proposed to Kourtney Kardashian, he did so with an estimated 12 carat elongated oval sparkler by jeweler Lorraine Schwartz. The reality star is just the latest to rock the celebrity cut du jour: oval engagement rings grace the famous fingers of Ariana Grande, Hailey Bieber, Serena Williams, and Blake Lively. (Just to name a few.)

In fact, oval engagement rings are experiencing a massive spike in interest, from, well everyone. According to Google Trends, “oval engagement rings” was the top-searched ring cut over the past five (yes, five!) years. And while the Gem Institute of America estimates 70 percent of diamonds sold today are round cut—buzzy e-commerce site Ring Concierge recently found 30 percent of their customers requested oval-cut diamonds.

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Why, exactly, is the oval engagement ring capturing such public fascination?

Versions of the elongated shape have existed for centuries. Signet rings, for example, are commonly done in an oval shape as it has enough surface area to carve in a family crest. In the 1700s, they started popping up in Georgian-era England, says Joan Boening, president of premiere antique silver, porcelain, and jewelry company James Robinson. 150 years later, Queen Victoria acquired the Koh-i-noor diamond from India. She recut the whopping 186-carat stone into a brilliant 105-carat oval shape. In 1937, the diamond was placed into a coronation crown for Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. It now sits in the Tower of London.

It also had a heyday in the 1950s. In 1957, Lazare Kaplan, a Russian born New York diamond dealer, crafted an oval gemstone shape that could be mass produced. It was a fresh contrast to the angular, straight-lined Art Decor rings popular in the 1920s and 1930s—and marketed as such. (“Scheer’s tells you everything you need to know about the NEW OVAL CUT DIAMOND!” read a 1958 ad in a Rochester, New York paper. Scheer, a former jewelry manufacture in New York’s diamond district, went on to explain: “It is proclaimed to be more grateful and elegant than the emerald-cut.”)

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The famed Kaplan was a supplier of Tiffany & Co. Cartier, and Van Cleef and Arpels. Soon, the shape sat in jewelry store cases across America. (Many jewelers touted its ability to look larger in size than a round cut diamond. "Oval diamonds look larger, but cost less!” read a 1958 ad in the Orlando Sentinel.) Upon his death, Kaplan was credited with its modern origins: “With such outlets, it was inevitable that the oval-cut diamond that he developed would become popular,” The New York Times wrote in his obituary.

In 1981, the oval engagement ring landed on the most high-profile hand of a generation: Princess Diana’s. Garrard Jewelers in London set a 12-carat, oval Sri Lankan sapphire in white gold and surrounded it with a halo of diamonds. Boening remembers seeing cluster-and-oval rings skyrocket during the eighties and nineties: “I can't tell you how many people came in looking for something like what Princess Diana had,” she says.

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In the late 1990s and early 2000s, interest in the oval ring decreased from the peak Diana days. However, the iconic ring once again returned to the worldwide spotlight when Prince William proposed to Kate Middleton with it in 2010. Boening says she saw a similar spike: “We are all Anglophiles, to an extent,” she surmises. Add in Blake Lively’s engagement to Ryan Reynolds soon after, plus a slew of other A-list celebrities rocking the same shape. . . and well,  is it any wonder the world found itself fascinated (and purchasing accordingly)?

Boening also points to the same factor advertised by those jewelers in 1958: an oval is a very flattering shape. “When you cut a stone in an oval shape, you get more coverage. So the stone appears bigger.” The Gemological Institute of America also agrees, writing: “Because the oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, it can appear larger to the eye. The oval shape can make the finger seem longer. And because the shape doesn’t have sharp angles or corners, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping compared to other fancy shapes.” Sounds like the perfect pairing: functional (in its most glamorous sense) and fashionable.

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Below, shop a selection of oval rings, selected by Vogue’s Jewelry Director Daisy Shaw-Ellis.

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Kwiat engagement ring with an oval diamond

$1625.00, KWIAT

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Stephanie Gottlieb oval-cut engagement ring with epaulettes

$.00, STEPHANIE GOTTLIEB

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Material Good oval-cut solitaire engagement ring

$28500.00, MATERIAL GOOD

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Stone and Strand Sophia ring in white gold

$950.00, STONE AND STRAND

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Brent Neal morganite and sapphire crown gypsy ring

$16490.00, TWIST

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Anita Ko floating diamond oval ring

$10770.00, BROKEN ENGLISH JEWELRY

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Nadine Aysoy Catena citrine and 18-karat gold ring

$3800.00, MATCHESFASHION.COM

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Vram Chrona Demi yellow tourmaline ring

$15000.00, BROKEN ENGLISH JEWELRY

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

FD Gallery antique oval-shaped pink topaz and diamond ring

$13500.00, FD GALLERY

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Moira Fine Jewellry vintage Burma ruby and diamond cluster ring

$54367.00, MOIRA FINE JEWELLRY

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

19th century 4.50 carat cabochon emerald diamonds duchess ring

$11833.00, 1STDIBS

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Rare Victorian, Burmese, double pink sapphire and diamond heart engagement ring

$35103.00, 1STDIBS

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  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Jemma Wayne Toujours opal and diamond ring

$5670.00, JEMMA WYNNE

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Irene Neuwirth One of a Kind oval double prong 18-karat rose gold ring

$7110.00, IRENE NEUWIRTH

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Marlo Laz Alexandra 14-karat gold, tourmaline, and diamond ring

$8400.00, NET-A-PORTER

  Oval Engagement Rings Are Trending—Why? © Provided by Vogue

Marie-Hélène de Taillac pink tourmaline princess ring

$4800.00, TWIST

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