Sport The "pirates", these winegrowers who energize the codes of Bordeaux
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finished "The bottle of grandparents served during the Sunday meal ". In Bordeaux, a collective of "pirate winegrowers" advocates innovation to dust the image of local wines, shunned by certain consumers.
It's harvest time at the Cazebonne castle, in the Graves. Its owner Jean-Baptiste Duquesne tastes, to verify their maturity, the violence and brilliant bays of forgotten grape varieties which he tries to rehabilitate.
His latest creation, a cuvée that is intended to be in taste of yesteryear, mixes Mancin, Castets, Bouchalès, Saint-Macaire and Jurançon Noir. So many unknown names which had their place in the Bordeaux before the winter of 1956, whose frosts destroyed almost half of the vines in Gironde.
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followed a massive uprooting for the benefit of the grape varieties used today, more fertile. Among those authorized, less than a dozen dominate: the emblematic Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc for the Reds; The Sauvignon-Sémillon-Muscadelle association for whites.
a choice far too limited for Jean-Baptiste Duquesne: "It is as if you explain to a painter that he must be satisfied Primary colors on his palette ".
"In Bordeaux, we have an extraordinary heritage that we do not use", regrets the winegrower installed in biodynamics, which sees in these forgotten bunches the promise of unique aromas, more up to date, such as Mancin, A "slightly silky cabernet, more flexible, with fewer tannins".
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more suitable grape varieties, adds the winemaker, to climate change which leads some to harvesting grapes not ripe - at the risk of producing "a little green" wines - to limit their degree of alcohol.
Facing the Merlot, "condemned" in his eyes because too rich, he highlights the Bouchalès whose "beautiful acidity" balances the assemblies.
"Instead of complaining that the market is bad, there is an urgency to question itself, to look for what can appeal to the consumer, who no longer has a chapel", continues the former merchant, creator of the site 750g.com cooking recipes.
- Exit the shackles -
at Château Chillac, in Morizès in Entre -Deux -Mers, Laurent Cassy does not recognize herself behind the stereotypical image conveyed by the prestigious names of the region, which represent "only 2% of the vineyard "and which are" often expensive and disrespectful of the environment ", he denigrates.
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This producer of Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superior, Côtes-de-Bordeaux Saint-Macaire and Entre-Deux-Mers in organic wonders "how to exist" when world known appeals draw prices down "selling wines at 5 euros ".
"We do not deny our codes but we can get out of this shackles," considers this vice-president of the New Aquitaine organic winegrowers union. According to an old oxidation method originating in Georgia, he developed an "orange wine", apricot color and a quince aroma, macerating a gray sauvignon like a red wine.
To publicize its creations, the Union of Pirates Bordeaux winegrowers, created in mid-September, will label organic "innovative and offbeat" cuvées every year. An independent jury will make first tastings on October 24. The bottles labeled in "wine from France" are sold between 15 and 20 euros, more than conventional Bordeaux.
"We completely missed the mid-range, when there is a niche market for these pleasure wines, easy to drink, halfway between the great inaccessible wines and the wines sold in bulk in supermarkets" , considers Fabien Lapeyre, installed in Saint-Hilaire-du-Bois.
He cultivates in amphora more than a dozen grape varieties, including the Syrah, usually more southern, and the white UGNI to make a straw wine - specialty of the Jura - Girondin.
The Interprofessional Council of Bordeaux wine looks at a "positive" black banner with a skull, underlined with two cross bottles, which serves as an emblem for pirates. Proof, according to him, that the largest AOC vineyard in France - 110,000 hectares planted and 600 million bottles - "still moves".
"50 years ago, there was more white than red, today there are 90% red. Who knows if, in 20 years, we will not have more pirate cuvées? These are the Innovations that made the history of Bordeaux, "says the CIVB.
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